ORGANIC & NATURAL

Planting of vines with Biodynamics technics in Hautes Côtes de Beaune

By DOMAINE DE LA ROSERAIE

This project , planting using traditional techniques ,will enable us to increase the size of the vineyard by 150%.

Location: Changey

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About

Hello, my name is Julien Petitjean.

A historian by education and a Burgundian for life, I first got involved with viticulture in 2001 during university research that led me to meet engaged and engaging wine-growers in the Côte de Nuits.
I immediately dropped everything and completely changed my life so that I could focus all of my time on this exciting adventure.

My instincts as a historian led me to initially take an interest in traditional techniques and so I learnt the trade by working along side old wine-growers that were passionate about their land and confident in their practices.
Their way of thinking about the soil, the vines, the seasons, vinification and tasting, their deep connection with the land, profoundly marked my understanding of viticulture and life in general.
I found a large number of these elements were also present in the philosophy of biodynamics.

Biodynamics:

Biodynamic farming is an agricultural method invented in the 1920s which treats the farm like an autonomous, balanced entity. The farmer organizes arboricultural (vines, orchards, woods, etc.), pastoral (sheep, chicken farming, etc.) and agricultural (grains, vegetables) activities so that they complement each other, without impacting the environment and with less threat of illness and disease. It is a way of using the farm's autonomy to strengthen it and creating a symbiosis between these different activities.

Pesticides (chemical fertilizers, weedkiller, phytosanitary products) are forbidden. All that is authorized is the use of sulphur and Bordeaux mixture, which are often complemented or replaced by plant-based 'teas' and essential oils.

To nourish the soil, and therefore the plants, only plant composts or animal manure from the farm are added.

Domaine de la Roseraie:

http://www.domaine-de-la-roseraie.fr

In 2012, after 10 years of working in viticulture, I was given the opportunity to buy a 1.2 ha plot of grapevines in the Beaune Village appellation. This was the birth of Domaine de la Roseraie, a vineyard managed using biodynamic principles and a hands-off approach.

The rose, which has long been a symbol of the natural purity, elegance and balance of plant life, was a natural choice for the name of the estate.

Soon complemented with a small number of rented parcels, Domaine de la Roseraie today stretches between Puligny-Montrachet and Beaune across 3 hectares of vines in the appellations "Bourgogne", "Hautes-Côtes de Beaune" and "Beaune Village", where Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are grown. Each of the parcels is cultivated with respect for the balance of its direct environment using biodynamic specifications, despite the wine not being labelled as such.

For the approach to be consistent, producing grapes with these environmental requirements only makes sense if the same demands are made in the cellar, which is I why every year I strive to vinify and age minimalist wines, without oenological input (native yeasts, minimal use of sulphites, no chaptalization, ageing in Burgundy oak barrels, etc.), a clear expression of each terroir.

The vineyard produces around 10,000 bottles annually, which are distributed in France and abroad (mainly England, Germany, Italy and the United States) to specialist wine merchants and gourmet restaurants.

What will the collection?

The Project

I am unable to live solely from Domaine de la Roseraie's activities, which is why I also work as a production manager at a renowned vineyard in the Côte Chalonnaise.

To be able to make a living entirely from Domaine de la Roseraie, working full time on the business and dedicating more time to my experiments, I now need to expand the vineyard.


After studying our application, the SAFER (the Land Use and Rural Settlement Corporation) ceded Domaine de la Roseraie a 1.5 ha parcel in the Hautes Côtes de Beaune appellation in the Echevronne commune near Pernand-Vergelesses in the north of Beaune.

This parcel is "bare" and it is now up to me to plant it.

The area where this parcel is located is known as "en Chaumont". It an ideal location for growing grapevines, situated at the top of a hill with light winds and exposure to the sun throughout the day, with a well-drained, sparse clay-limestone soil. The wines produced here are known as the best in the sector.

Because planting requires round-the-clock presence and represents a significant amount of additional work, I will be unable to plant everything in one go. I will therefore plant the Chardonnay (1 ha) and Pinot Noir (0.5 ha) in waves of 0.5 ha per year over a period of 3 years.

Once set up and productive (4-5 years after planting), this new parcel will enable me to produce around 6,000 additional bottles of white and red Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune that I am certain will be extremely flavoursome.

A first wave of planting is scheduled for the spring of 2018, testing cuttings that will be grafted using traditional techniques that are in keeping with the objectives of natural production.

The help that I am asking for today is related to the second wave of planting, which is scheduled for spring 2019 but needs to be prepared now.

Lilian Bérillon, one the the top nurserymen in the world, has agreed to produce 4,500 whip-grafted plants for Domaine de la Roseraie from a very old and high-quality selection of Chardonnay.


- Why graft the vines and why are we preparing the 2019 plants now?

A grapevine plant is composed of an aerial part which produces grapes (known as the varietal) and a root section normally produced from American vines. This is because vineyards throughout the world are colonized by an insect called phylloxera, whose bite kills the roots of most grapevines but causes no damage to American vines.

Before being planted in the vineyard, the vine is therefore assembled from a branch of American vine from the year onto which the nurseryman grafts a branch of grape-producing vine. This assembly is set with paraffin wax and planted for one year to enable it to properly knit together and produce roots. The next winter, the plants will be uprooted by the nurseryman, packaged and sent to the wine-grower for planting on-site in the spring. These plants therefore need to be prepared 18 months in advance.

This article, by grafting expert Marc Birebent, provides further information on the history of grafting and the techniques used:

http://www.soin-de-la-terre.org/wp-content/uploads/Le-greffage-et-ses-conséquences-sur-la-viticulture-contemporaine-par-Marc-Birebent.c.pdf

[Translator's note, the above article is in French. The following links contain similar information in English: https://hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/janick-papers/c09.pdf / https://io9.gizmodo.com/how-the-great-french-wine-blight-changed-grapes-forever-1691598233 / http://www.worldwide-vineyards.com/upload/documents/INFLUENCE_OF_GRAFT_ON_VINE_DECLINE_OCT_8__2015_cost_meeting_BORDEAUX.pdf ]

The choice of plant material:

To make their work easier, wine-growers often plant their parcels with a single clone. This means that each vinestock behaves like its neighbour and production is extremely uniform. All of the harvest reaches maturity at the same time. This technical choice, however, very much limits the diversity which is required for natural balance. In wetter or drier years, for example, the harvest is severely impacted by the selected clone's individual reaction to the pressures of the vintage.

In contrast to these modern practices, a more traditional technique consists of choosing from these old vines (planted before the development of clonal selections) a varying number of healthy and robust vinestocks with complementary criteria: some stocks with good grape yield, others with lower yield, some that mature early than others, some later, etc. This enables us to create more, durable old vines with strong resistance to illness, and to plant a large number of different individuals (often dozens) in a single parcel, encouraging biodiversity in spite of the monoculture and thus limit the occurrence of decline (a sort of plant cancer). Lastly, we grow grapes with complementary qualities that help add to the complexity and balance of future wines.


You can read about Lilian Bérillon's thoughts on the matter in this interview in the Revue du Vin de France [in French]:

http://www.larvf.com/vin-vigne-deperissement-malad...,4573158.asp

What role does biodynamics play in all of this?

One of the key elements of biodynamics is the revitalization of the root and aerial parts of the plant using dynamic (energized) preparations called 500 and 501.

Our nurseryman applies these preparations during rooting of the cuttings and growth of the young plants. These practices are in keeping with those used at Domaine de la Roseraie. Their effects are therefore all the more favourable.

In addition to the issue of preparations, biodynamics is omnipresent in every choice made and every action implemented in this project:

  • -Pruning that respects sap flow is practised from the vine's first year;
  • -Varied ground cover with local plants will be quickly sown to protect, nourish and air the soil;
  • -Fruit trees are planted around and in the parcel to further increase plant and animal diversity;
  • -The parcel will be planted in a North-South geometry to ensure that the Earth's magnetic field favourably influences the plants;
  • -The density of planting, unusual in the region, is designed to enable increased sun exposure and better hold in the ground for each vine;
  • -Use of locally produced, rot-resistant black locust stakes;
  • -The ability to transform the vine area into pasture between the end of the harvest and the start of the summer season...

As you can see, lots of different factors have been taken into account for establishing these vines, with maximum respect for the laws of the living environment and with the sole aim of producing high-quality wines that reflect the terroir.


This project is a turning point for us. It will enable us to increase the size of the vineyard by 150%.

It is in this project, to my knowledge the only of its kind in Burgundy, that I am inviting you to participate.

Avec le printemps qui pointe le bout de son nez ...

Avril est là et entre deux giboulées, nous préparons les complantations (remplacement des pieds morts par des jeunes greffes).

Pour les aider à bien s'enraciner et à bien grandir quoi de mieux qu'une bonne recette de grand-mère?
De l'eau de saule ou hormone naturelle de croissance du végétal.
Faites infuser des branches de saule coupées en morceaux dans de l'eau de pluie pendant 4 semaines.
Au terme, tremper 24h les racines de vos plants de vigne dans l'eau obtenue juste avant de les mettre en place.
Et voilà c'est tout simple...

Suivez moi sur Instagram pour ne rien manquer de mes activités ...

Julien Petijean, le 11 Avril 2018

Dégustation Brasserie Baroche Paris 8 ème du 29 Mars 2018

J'ai eu le plaisir de faire découvrir les vins du domaine lors d'une dégustation, l'occasion d'échanger avec beaucoup d'entre vous ... Près de 80 personnes étaient présentes.

Le 05 Avril 2018

Julien Petitjean

UN GRAND MERCI

à tous mes soutiens: 53 à ce jour ! la moitié du chemin a été parcourue grâce à vous, n'hésitez pas à relayer largement ce projet à tous ceux qui, comme vous, croient à une viticulture novatrice et respectueuse.

Julien Petitjean, le 12 Avril 2018

Suivi par le Bien Public depuis plusieurs mois ...

J'ai le plaisir de vous faire découvrir le dernier article paru il ya quelques jours, le 31 Mars 2018

Julien Petitjean

Article

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Anima vinum — 15/03/2018 09:03

Nous connaissons bien ce vigneron et en sommes très "fans". Adepte de Steiner et Fukuoka, sa vision de la viticulture le classe parmi les vignerons d'avenir. La petitesse du domaine d'une part, la faiblesse des rendements et la demande sur les productions du domaine d'autre part vont rapidement anéantir les espoirs d'achats directs au domaine, des amateurs de vins. Ceux-ci seraient bien inspirés de se positionner sans trop tarder : soutenir ce projet est un excellent moyen pour cela. Les vins, totalement vinifiés et élevés sans ajout de produits oenologiques ni sulfites expriment une vraie personnalité : les blancs sont frais et les rouges structurés et concentrés. Dans les 2 cas, ils ont beaucoup de fond et peuvent affrontés les années. Les rouges sont quasiment "indestructibles" !

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Manuel desbois — 11/04/2018 23:04

Julien Petitjean mérite d’être soutenu dans ce projet de plantation. Érudit, passionné, vibrant, cet ancien historien maîtrise son sujet, même s’il faut être fou pour avoir autant d'idées à mettre en œuvre à la fois ! Ses vins sont complexes, pleins de vie et vont certainement traverser sereinement les années qui viennent. Ils se boivent très bien jeunes, mais il faudra avoir un peu de patience pour apprécier leur plénitude. Sa production est pour le moment très limitée, c’est l’occasion parfaite pour la découvrir et l’apprécier.

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Laurent marty — 12/04/2018 15:04

Lors de la belle dégustation organisée il y a peu au Baroche, j'ai découvert un vigneron aux valeurs affirmées et aux vins de grande personnalité. C'est une Bourgogne comme on l'aime, racontant son terroir et capable de garde. Loin il est vrai des facilités trop boisées ou trop flatteuses que l'on trouve si souvent... Les blancs sont précis, cristallins avec juste ce qu'il faut de gourmandise en fin de bouche. Le Beaune blanc tiendra son rang sur un poisson en sauce ou des gambas grillées relevées par exemple au curry. Les rouges méritent un peu de patience -comme tout bon Bourgogne- pour se velouter en texture et se déployer complètement en arômes. Il est donc judicieux de les encaver maintenant pour de futures occasions. Les vieilles vignes feront la joie d'une entrecôte au four et le Maranges d'une grousse ou autre joyeuseté du genre. Merci Julien pour votre ténacité face aux aléas climatiques de ces derniers millésimes et pour votre belle résistance aux sirènes du temps. Vous nous donnez à voir ce que la Bourgogne sait faire de mieux, dans son savant équilibre de permanence et de modernité.

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Dfg finance — 16/04/2018 15:04

Bonjour, Pouvez vous me dire combien de temps garder ces vins et à partir de quand je pourrai les ouvrir ? Cordialement, Denis

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Domaine de la roseraie — 21/04/2018 22:04

@Dfg finance :

Je dirais que tout dépend de votre goût personnel.

Si vous appréciez les vins sur le fruit alors je vous conseille d'ouvrir nos vins jusqu'à 24h à l'avance ou de les carafer avant le service.

Toutefois, nos vins ont été pensés pour être gardé, aussi je vous conseille d' attendre 7 ans dans un premier temps pour les découvrir au début de leur phase optimale. Il déploieront leurs arômes dans la souplesse de leur tanins fins.

Une garde de 10 à 15 ans est même tout à fait envisageable, quelle que soit l'appellation.

Bonne dégustation !


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